Humphreys Peak: A Travelogue
Hiking Humphreys Peak has been on the bucket lists of many Arizonans, and our group was no exception. It is the highest natural point in the state, with an elevation of 12,637 feet (3,852 m), and is located within the Kachina Peaks Wilderness in the Coconino National Forest, near Flagstaff, Arizona.
I personally had planned to hike Humphreys Peak with two different sets of friends and had backed out twice. Lightning at the peak and catastrophes had been the most deterrent statistics that made us cancel our plans. However, when a friend from our neighborhood asked who was interested in training for Humphreys, my hand shot up first!
She has a lot of experience with such difficult hikes and has the needed leadership skills to guide a big group, motivating us with inspiring levels of strength, motivation, and availability, among so many other factors. Organizing a common slot when the majority is available and when Arizona weather is conducive for hiking is a challenge in itself. Yet she made it possible.
Just to give you an example, we had in the past planned a girls-only trip to Vegas with so many different friend circles but had ended up settling on simply watching a movie after our families’ dinners— that too after 8 out of 12 of the friends dropping out! So honestly, I had zero hopes of Humphreys being a reality.
Yet I signed up, and we continued to go on hikes of varying difficulties, week after week. At the end of February of 2020, we finalized the date when everyone was available, made lists of what to pack or buy, and even booked our hotel rooms to stay in around the end of May. But by the middle of March, COVID-19 became prevalent in the US, and with heavy hearts, we canceled our reservations, me dropping my hope of ever completing Humphreys.
In January of 2021, our motivated friend pinged us again, suggesting we start our practice hikes once more. By then it was a bit iffy, as everyone had different opinions as to what seemed safe and what didn’t. Still, she kept asking us every weekend: “I’m going hiking, who wants to join?” Slowly, a few of us started joining her, but I was still watching them from outside of the loop. You know how spectators behave on Facebook or WhatsApp groups! Not contributing just observing and speculating: how would it be to hike with masks? Would it be safe for the rest of the family? Maybe once vaccinations start, it might be okay. I had so many thoughts and what-ifs, yet against all odds, we kept practicing as if we were certain to achieve our goal, allowing ourselves to dream in the dread and shadows of COVID-19!
There were many hurdles along the way; most of us could go hiking only on Sundays, whereas I could only manage on Saturdays. So I challenged myself to go hiking solo or find anyone who was available. I personally had never been hiking on my own, so this was an uphill battle to motivate myself to get out of bed early in the morning, sometimes even at 4 a.m.! Amongst these hikes, there were funny and not so funny incidents, including, terrifyingly, confronting a coyote.
By March of 2021, vaccinations began in Arizona, and we took the plunge, starting our planning for Humphreys by end of May. By then we had bought all our gear, prepared our checklist for what to pack, and sorted out all the details. Only the starting date was missing! By the end of March, we had to make a decision if we were actually going to do it and finally took the bold step to make our cabin reservations. With concerns about air circulation at such a high elevation, we opted to book individual cabins at Ski Lift Lodge and Cabins. This establishment had an option of cancellation that was 4 days prior to our trip, so if anything came up, we were prepared to cancel at the last minute.
Our leader kept motivating us, preparing us week after week till the date of the hike. With the hot Arizona summer on the horizon, we kept on going on varying levels of challenging hikes per her plan without questioning. If our leader said you need to go for an 11-mile hike after waking up at 3:30 in the morning, we did it! Because of the warmer temperatures, it wasn’t exactly fun, but we kept at it religiously. Then came the day, just 4 days prior to our travel when we could still cancel the trip. We were watching the weather closely, as the weather would make all the difference during the hike. If there was any sign of clouds, we knew we would have to turn back, as the weather could change very quickly at that elevation. And due to the lack of a tree line, there would be no cover, and lightning could become a reality very quickly. Thankfully, the weather was bright and sunny on the 29th, the preplanned date of our hike.
We were relieved that it was finally going to happen, but boom, a day before our trip, the weather channel showed a cloudy day on the 29th and even later that weekend. We were cautiously monitoring the weather conditions in the area, and it showed no rain but cloudy after 2 in the afternoon. Considering the 10.7 miles we were to hike, I estimated it would take about 7 to 8 hours to finish the hike, whereas our leader and a few others were more realistic and suggested that we should have an early start so that we would have enough buffer room if it were to take longer to complete. After bargaining on sleep time, we settled on starting at 5:30 a.m. from the cabin.
We began at the Snowbowl base trailhead at 6:15 a.m. Within few steps, we could feel that this was a different hike than the ones we had practiced, the main challenge being elevation! By then, the distance didn’t scare us, but we had no idea of what to expect at that elevation. We started at 9000 feet from sea level from the trailhead and would gain around 3,670 feet over 10.7 miles. To give you a relative idea, Phoenix is at 1,085 feet of elevation. There are 3 false peaks before you reach the summit, so many people plan to go up to the saddle, which is about 3 miles from the trailhead up to the end of the tree line. After that, all vegetation ends and the tundra region begins.
From the saddle to the summit is a totally different experience than what it is up to the saddle. There are rocks, loose gravel, and absolutely stunning views throughout the hike! Even though we knew there would be false peaks, once we reached the first false peak, the path in front of us seemed impossible. It became a sheer mind game to keep pushing forward, and because of the lack of vegetation in the area, it was super windy in that stretch. The air became so thin that I could hear my own palpitations! Breathing in through my nose and sharp exhaling through my mouth seemed to help a bit. Finally, we reached the summit at noon! After taking in the 360-degree views and fueling ourselves for the descent, it was time to start the hike back.
Although I usually enjoy the descents of most hikes, the challenge on this one was the slippery path. There was loose gravel, melting snow, and slippery, muddy patches all along the hike. I stopped counting the number of times I almost slipped but didn’t hit the ground, although few people along the way were not so lucky and fell down multiple times, only to lift themselves up with a zeal that they were not aware they had! We experienced wobbly knees due to continuously managing our balance, aching shoulders due to carrying heavy backpacks, and of course, squished toes begging for freedom.
Descending, however, felt so much easier than the arduous climb up, and we couldn’t have asked for better weather! Thankfully, it was a clear, sunny day with pleasant temperatures. We even managed to play silly games to keep our minds occupied while hiking down. By 5 p.m., we returned to the trailhead to conclude the most memorable, fulfilling hiking experience of our lives!
It took about 11 hours to complete this treacherous hike with plenty of short breaks, but it was definitely worth it! You might ask: would I put myself through this ever again? Surprisingly, the answer is yes; I have already started plans to visit again & again :).
Our leader has willingly accepted the challenge to prepare us for the next adventure, and we the “Stonefield Hikers” have already started brainstorming for the next one!
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Incredible…..👍
Thanks Rupali 🙂